geo.wikisort.org - Mountains

Mount Logan (/ˈloʊɡən/) is the highest mountain in Canada and the second-highest peak in North America after Denali. The mountain was named after Sir William Edmond Logan, a Canadian geologist and founder of the Geological Survey of Canada (GSC). Mount Logan is located within Kluane National Park Reserve[6] in southwestern Yukon, less than 40 kilometres (25 mi) north of the Yukon–Alaska border. Mount Logan is the source of the Hubbard and Logan glaciers. Although many shield volcanoes are much larger in size and mass, Mount Logan is believed to have the largest base circumference of any non-volcanic mountain on Earth,[7] including a massif with eleven peaks over 5,000 metres (16,400 ft).[8][9]

Mount Logan
Mount Logan from the southeast
Highest point
Elevation	5,959 m (19,551 ft)[1][2]
Prominence	5,250 m (17,220 ft)[3]
Parent peak	Denali[4]
Isolation	624 km (388 mi)
Listing	World most prominent peaks 6th Seven Second Summits 3rd Country high points 15th North America highest peaks 2nd North America prominent peaks 2nd North America isolated peaks 22nd Canada highest major peaks 1st
Coordinates	60°34′02″N 140°24′19″W[5]
Geography
Mount Logan Location in Yukon, Canada
Country	Canada
Territory	Yukon
Parent range	Saint Elias Mountains
Topo map	NTS 115C9 McArthur Peak[5]
Climbing
First ascent	1925 by A.H. MacCarthy et al.
Easiest route	glacier/snow/ice climb

Due to active tectonic uplifting, Mount Logan is still rising in height (approximately 0.35 mm per year).[10] Before 1992, the exact elevation of Mount Logan was unknown and measurements ranged from 5,959 to 6,050 metres (19,551 to 19,849 ft). In May 1992, a GSC expedition climbed Mount Logan and fixed the current height of 5,959 metres (19,551 ft) using GPS.[8][11][12]

Temperatures are extremely low on and near Mount Logan. On the 5,000-metre-high (16,000 ft) plateau, air temperature hovers around −45 °C (−49 °F) in the winter and reaches near freezing in summer with the median temperature for the year around −27 °C (−17 °F). Minimal snow melt leads to a significant ice cap, almost 300 metres (980 ft) thick in certain spots.[9]

Peaks of the massif

The Mount Logan massif is considered to contain all the surrounding peaks with less than 500 m (1,640 ft) of prominence, as listed below:

Peak	Height	Prominence	Coordinates
Main[3]	5,959 m (19,551 ft)	5,250 m (17,224 ft) above Mentasta Pass	60°34′2″N 140°24′19″W
Philippe Peak (West)[13]	5,925 m (19,439 ft)	265 m (869 ft)	60°34′42.6″N 140°26′02.4″W
Logan East Peak (Stuart Peak)[14]	5,898 m (19,350 ft)	198 m (650 ft)	60°34′31.1″N 140°22′00.1″W
Houston's Peak[15]	5,740 m (18,832 ft)	100 m (328 ft)	60°35′03.5″N 140°27′20.5″W
Prospector Peak[16]	5,644 m (18,517 ft)	344 m (1,129 ft)	60°35′58.9″N 140°30′40.7″W
AINA Peak[17]	5,630 m (18,471 ft)	130 m (427 ft)	60°36′31.8″N 140°31′48.6″W
Russell Peak[18]	5,580 m (18,307 ft)	80 m (262 ft)	60°35′31.2″N 140°29′08.9″W
Tudor Peak (Logan North Peak)[19]	5,559 m (18,238 ft)	219 m (719 ft)	60°36′58.2″N 140°29′35.4″W
Saxon Peak (Northeast)[20]	5,500 m (18,045 ft)	80 m (262 ft)	60°37′12.0″N 140°27′57.6″W
Queen Peak[21]	5,380 m (17,651 ft)	160 m (525 ft)	60°36′33.5″N 140°35′12.5″W
Capet Peak (Northwest)[22]	5,250 m (17,224 ft)	240 m (787 ft)	60°38′15.0″N 140°32′41.3″W
Catenary Peak[23]	4,097 m (13,442 ft)	397 m (1,302 ft)	60°36′36.0″N 140°17′52.1″W
Teddy Peak[24]	3,956 m (12,979 ft)	456 m (1,496 ft)	60°32′37.7″N 140°28′41.5″W

Discovery and naming

Mount Logan is not readily visible from the surrounding lowlands or the coast, due to its position in the heart of the Saint Elias Mountains, although it can be seen from 125 miles (200 km) out to sea.[25] Its first reported sighting was in 1890 by Israel C. Russell, during an expedition to nearby Mount Saint Elias, from the crest of the Pinnacle Pass Hills (60°9.5′N 140°18′W). He wrote: "The clouds parting toward the northeast revealed several giant peaks not before seen... One stranger, rising in three white domes far above the clouds, was especially magnificent".[26][27] Russell gave the mountain its present name.

In 1894 Mount Logan's elevation was determined to be about 19,500 ft or 5,950 m, making it the highest known peak in North America at the time.[28] In 1898, Denali was determined to be higher.[29]

Ascent attempts

First ascent

In 1922, a geologist approached the Alpine Club of Canada with the suggestion that the club send a team to the mountain to reach the summit for the first time. An international team of Canadian, British and American climbers was assembled the following year, initially planning an attempt in 1924 but forced by funding and preparation delays to postpone the trip until 1925. The international team of climbers began their journey in early May, crossing the mainland from the Pacific coast by train. They then walked the remaining 200 kilometres (120 mi) to within 10 kilometres (6 mi) of the Logan Glacier where they established base camp. In the early evening of June 23, 1925, Albert H. MacCarthy (leader), H.F. Lambart, Allen Carpé, W.W. Foster, Norman H. Read and Andy Taylor stood on top for the first time.[9][30] It had taken them 65 days to approach the mountain from the nearest town (McCarthy across the border in Alaska), reach the summit, and return, with all climbers intact, although some of them suffered severe frostbite.[31]

Subsequent notable ascents and attempts

• 1957 East Ridge. Don Monk, Gil Roberts and three others (US) reached the East Peak on July 19 after a 24-day climb.[32][33]
• 1959 East Ridge, second ascent and first alpine-style ascent, Hans Gmoser and five others (Canada). Starting from Kluane Lake, they hiked and skied 100 miles (160 km) to reach the base of the mountain. They climbed the ridge in six days and summited the East Peak on June 12.[34]
• 1965 Hummingbird Ridge (South Ridge). Dick Long, Allen Steck, Jim Wilson, John Evans, Franklin Coale Sr. and Paul Bacon (US) over 30 days, mid-July to Mid-August. Fred Beckey remarked: "When they got back we just couldn't believe that they had climbed that thing. We didn't think they had a chance".[35] Featured in Fifty Classic Climbs of North America. As of 2022 the climb remains unrepeated.
• 1967, August, the first ski descent of the mountain was made in two stages by Daniel C. Taylor main summit to the Kluane glacier [36]
• 1977 Warbler Ridge. Dave Jones, Frank Baumann, Fred Thiessen, Jay Page (all from Canada) and Rene Bucher (Swiss) in 22 days.[37]
• 1978 West Ridge. Steve Davis (WA), Jon Waterman, George Sievewright, Roger Hurt (NH). Climbed ridge in 27 days "capsule-style".[38]
• 1979 Northwest Ridge Michael Down (CA), Paul Kindree, John Howe, Reid Carter and John Wittmayer climbed to the summit over 22 days, topping out on June 19.[39]
• 1979 South-Southwest Ridge. Raymond Jotterand (CA), Alan Burgess, Jim Elzinga and John Lauchlan reached the summit after 15 days of climbing on June 30 and July 1.[40]
• 1986 First winter ascent by Todd Frankiewicz, Willy Hersman, Steve Koslow, George Rooney, Vernon Tejas and John Bauman via the King’s Trench Route on March 16.[41][42]
• 1987 David Cheesmond and Catherine Freer disappeared while attempting to repeat the Hummingbird Ridge.[43]
• 1992 June 6, an expedition sponsored by the Royal Canadian Geographic Society confirmed the height of Mount Logan using GPS. The leader was Michael Schmidt, with Lisel Currie, Leo Nadeay, Charlie Roots, J-C. Lavergne, Roger Laurilla, Patrick Morrow, Karl Nagy, Sue Gould, Alan Björn, Lloyd Freese, Kevin McLaughlin and Rick Staley.[44]
• 2005 late May. Three climbers from the Vancouver-based North Shore Rescue team became stranded on the mountain. A joint operation by Canadian and American forces rescued the three climbers and took them to Anchorage, Alaska for treatment of frostbite.[45]
• 2017 May 23. 15-year-old Naomi Prohaska reached the summit, the youngest person to do so. She was part of a team led by her father.[46]
• 2018 June 14. The first all US veteran team reached the summit. The six-person team was unguided and part of the US non-profit organization Veterans Expeditions.[47]

Climbing Rules

In January 2020, due to the expensive cost of search and rescue operations in recent years, Parks Canada announced new rules for climbing Mt. Logan:

• No solo expeditions
• No winter expeditions (which also includes all of Kluane National Park)
• Climbers must have insurance to cover the cost of search and rescue.[48]

There have been eight rescue missions in the past seven years in Kluane National Park. Each mission typically costs between $60,000 to $100,000 CAD which is paid for by Canadian taxpayers. A Parks Canada spokesperson said the new rules are to help reduce the financial burden to taxpayers.[48]

Proposed renaming

Following the death of former Prime Minister of Canada Pierre Trudeau in 2000, then Prime Minister Jean Chrétien, a close friend of Trudeau, proposed renaming the mountain Mount Trudeau.[49][50] However opposition from Yukoners, mountaineers, geologists, Trudeau's political critics, and many other Canadians forced the plan to be dropped.[51] A mountain in British Columbia's Premier Range was named Mount Pierre Elliott Trudeau instead.[52]

See also

• List of mountain peaks of North America
  • List of mountain peaks of Canada
    • List of highest points of Canadian provinces and territories
    • List of Ultras in Canada
• List of elevation extremes by country

References

Bibliography

• Irving, R. L. G. (1940). Ten Great Mountains. London: J. M. Dent & Sons. [The climbing history up to 1939 of Mount Logan, Snowdon, Ben Nevis, Ushba, Everest, Nanga Parbat, Kanchenjunga, the Matterhorn, Aoraki / Mount Cook and Mont Blanc.]
• Roper, Steve; Steck, Allen (1979). Fifty Classic Climbs of North America. San Francisco, CA, USA: Sierra Club Books. pp. 179–182. ISBN 0-87156-292-8.
• Scott, Chic (2000). Pushing the Limits, The Story of Canadian Mountaineering. Calgary, Alberta, Canada: Rocky Mountain Books. ISBN 0-921102-59-3. Retrieved December 27, 2013.
• Selters, Andy (2004). Ways to the Sky. Golden, CO, USA: American Alpine Club Press. ISBN 0-930410-83-1.
• Sherman, Paddy (1965). Cloud Walkers - Six Climbs on Major Canadian Peaks. Toronto, Canada: Macmillan of Canada. Lib Congress Cat# 65-25069.

External links

• "Mount Logan". Peakware.com. Archived from the original on March 4, 2016.
• 2009 Trip Report
• Mount Logan Canadian Titan - Virtual Museum of Canada

На других языках

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[de] Mount Logan

Der Mount Logan – in der Eliaskette im Südwesten des kanadischen Territoriums Yukon, im Kluane-Nationalpark, gelegen – ist mit 5959 m der höchste Berg Kanadas und nach dem Denali (Mount McKinley) der zweithöchste Gipfel Nordamerikas; als solcher zählt er zu den Seven Second Summits. Der Berg wurde 1890 entdeckt und 1891 nach dem damals sehr bekannten Geologen Sir William Edmond Logan benannt. Mittlerweile gibt es 13 verschiedene Routen zum Gipfel, und seine Besteigung gilt als eine der schwierigsten Nordamerikas. Neben dem Hauptgipfel gibt es drei weitere Gipfel über 5890 m.

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- [en] Mount Logan

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[es] Monte Logan

El monte Logan (en inglés Mount Logan) es la montaña más alta de Canadá y la segunda más alta de toda Norteamérica después del monte Denali, en Alaska. Forma parte de las montañas San Elías y se encuentra en el sector suroccidental del Territorio del Yukón, junto a la frontera con el estado de Alaska, y es parte del parque y reserva nacional Kluane.[1] En él nacen los glaciares de Hubbard y Logan. Tiene una prominencia de 5250 m, siendo el 6.º más prominente del mundo. Se cree que el monte Logan tiene la circunferencia de base más grande de cualquier montaña no volcánica de la Tierra (un gran número de volcanes de escudo son mucho más grandes en tamaño y masa), formando un macizo que tiene once picos por encima de los 5000 msnm.[2][3]

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[fr] Mont Logan

Le mont Logan est un sommet s'élevant à 5 959 mètres d'altitude dans le Yukon et constituant le point culminant du Canada et le deuxième plus haut d'Amérique du Nord après le Denali, faisant ainsi partie des sept seconds sommets. Il se situe dans le parc national de Kluane et sa réserve. Il est soumis à 300 jours de mauvais temps par an en moyenne avec des températures polaires.

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[it] Monte Logan

Il monte Logan è la montagna più alta del Canada e la seconda cima più elevata del Nord America dopo il monte Denali in Alaska, appartenente ai Monti Sant'Elia (Catena Costiera Pacifica). Fu così chiamata in onore di sir William Logan Edmond, geologo canadese fondatore del Geological Survey of Canada (GSC - commissione geologica del Canada).

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[ru] Логан (гора)

Ло́ган (англ. Logan) — высочайшая вершина Канады (5956 метров над уровнем моря) и вторая по высоте вершина Северной Америки после горы Денали. Находится на территории Национального парка Клуэйн на юго-западе территории Юкон, менее чем в 40 километрах к востоку от границы с Аляской, в горном хребте Святого Ильи. Вершина Логан является одной из самых высоких гор в мире по относительной высоте, занимая шестое место после Эвереста, Аконкагуа, Денали, Килиманджаро и Кристобаль-Колона.

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