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Großvenediger (German pronunciation: [ˈɡʀoːsveˌneːdɪɡɐ] (listen)) is the main peak of the Venediger Group within the Hohe Tauern mountain range, on the border of the Austrian state of Tyrol (East Tyrol) with Salzburg. It is generally considered to be Austria's fourth highest mountain (although it can be up to sixteenth if every subsidiary summit is counted). The summit, covered by glaciers, is part of the Hohe Tauern National Park.

Großvenediger
The south face of the Großvenediger
Highest point
Elevation	3,666 m (12,028 ft)[1]
Prominence	1,199 m (3,934 ft)
Isolation	26 km (16 mi)
Listing	Alpine mountains above 3000 m
Coordinates	47°6′34″N 12°20′44″E
Naming
English translation	Great Venetian
Language of name	German
Pronunciation	German: [ˌɡʁoːsveˈneːdɪɡɐ]
Geography
Location	Salzburg & East Tyrol, Austria
Parent range	Hohe Tauern Venediger Group
Topo map	ÖK50 152
Climbing
First ascent	1841

Name

Originally known as Stützerkopf, the name Großvenediger (English: Great Venetian) is first recorded from a 1797 border survey. The origin of this name is unclear, probably deriving from Venetian merchants on their way over the mountain passes. An alternative theory is that the view from the summit may reach as far as Venice, some 200 km (120 mi) away, however, this is not in accordance with the facts.

The author and mountaineer Ignaz von Kürsinger (1795–1861), one of the first climbers of the Großvenediger in 1840, coined the epithet weltalte Majestät (World-old Majesty).

Climbing history

Several attempts were made in the early 19th century to reach the Großvenediger summit, after the first ascent of the nearby Großglockner in 1800. On 9 August 1828, an expedition of 17 men, including the Habsburg archduke John of Austria, failed in their attempt to climb Großvenediger due to an avalanche.

It wasn't until 3 September 1841, forty years after the first ascent of the Großglockner, that a team led by Josef Schwab made the first successful attempt on the Großvenediger summit, starting at the northern foot in Neukirchen in the Salzach Valley, climbing up southwards along the Obersulzbach tributary valley and over the Stierlahnerwand. Other members of the team included Ignaz von Kürsinger, Paul Rohregger, Anton von Ruthner and Franz Spitaler. Of the 40 participants, only 26 finally reached the summit, the others having stayed back due to fatigue.

Today several mountain huts serve as basis for summit ascents, though mountaineering on nival level can be dangerous in view of numerous crevasses.

Main routes to the summit

The Großvenediger can be reached via three different common routes (north, east and south).

Northern Ascent

Of the three different routes, this is the least travelled. Compared to the other two main routes, one starts from the state of Salzburg rather than from Tyrol. The starting point is the Kürsingerhütte and the ascent is from the Sulzau via the Berndlalm and Postalm.

Eastern Ascent

The east ascent takes about eight hours, where one puts about 2,200 vertical meters behind him. Without a break, this could be achieved in around four hours.^{[citation needed]} This is a light- to medium-difficulty high alpine tour.

The starting point here is the Matreier Tauernhaus. From there you march on a gravel road to Innergschlöß to the Venedigerhaus (1691 m). After half an hour towards the end of the valley, a steep and very strenuous ascent follows. The route then meanders to the New Prager Hut (2796 m). The route then follows the glacier to the west, where extra caution is required due to the crevasses. The final ascent becomes very steep and the route goes to the summit ridge, which is becoming increasingly narrow.[2]

Southern Ascent

The ascent from the Defreggerhaus is considered one of the easiest, although the risk of crevasses and the narrow ridge crossing to the summit should not be underestimated. Due to the relatively 'easy' ascent, this is the most popular of the three common routes.

Starting from the Defreggerhaus, the route goes north along the 'Moränenrückens' up to the 'Mullwitzaderl'. It follows an incline to the 'Rainertörl', continuing south below the Rainerhorn and going a bit steeper to the Rainertörl (3421 m). The way leads to the northwest, slightly rising to the steep ascent of the Venediger and finally reaches the broad shoulder and narrow ridge to the summit.

All three climbs on the Großvenediger are technically not difficult, but the higher elements pose a risk, as they lead across a glacier terrain full of crevasses. Depending on the conditions, these are sometimes difficult to recognise and are also a danger in ski tours.

See also

• List of the highest mountains in Austria

References

На других языках

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[de] Großvenediger

Der Großvenediger ist mit einer Höhe von 3657 m ü. A.[1] der höchste Berg der Venedigergruppe in den Hohen Tauern sowie Salzburgs. Er liegt direkt am Alpenhauptkamm an der Grenze von Osttirol zu Salzburg. Sein Erscheinungsbild ist durch seine allseitige starke Vergletscherung geprägt, darunter Schlatenkees und Obersulzbachkees, wobei die einzelnen Gletscher durch insgesamt vier überaus markante Grate getrennt sind. Im Zuge der Erstbesteigung wurde von Ignaz von Kürsinger die Bezeichnung weltalte Majestät geprägt. Der Gipfel selbst ist im Zuge des Gletscherschwunds der vergangenen Jahrzehnte bereits vollständig ausgeapert und büßte so deutlich an Höhe ein, so wurde er in den 1980er Jahren noch mit 3674 m vermessen.[3]

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- [en] Großvenediger

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[fr] Grossvenediger

Le Grossvenediger (avec l'orthographe allemande : Großvenediger) est un sommet des Alpes, à 3 657 m d'altitude, dans le massif des Hohe Tauern, en Autriche. Il est le point culminant du chaînon de Venise (Venedigergruppe) s'étendant du Tyrol (Tyrol oriental) à travers la crête principale des Alpes au land de Salzbourg. Ce pic fortement englacé est particulièrement touché par le recul des glaciers depuis 1850.

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[it] Großvenediger

Il Großvenediger (.mw-parser-output .audiolink a{background:url("//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/8/8a/Loudspeaker.svg/11px-Loudspeaker.svg.png")center left no-repeat!important;padding-left:16px!important;padding-right:0!important}[ˈɡʀoːsveˌneːdɪɡɐ][?·info]; 3.666 m s.l.m.) è una montagna degli Alti Tauri nelle Alpi dei Tauri occidentali. Si trova in Austria lungo la linea di confine tra il Tirolo ed il Salisburghese, quarta cima per altezza dell'Austria.

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[ru] Гросвенедигер

Гросвенедигер[2], Грос-Вене́дигер[3] (нем. Großvenediger) — высочайшая вершина Венедигерской группы в Высоком Тауэрне, горной гряде в Австрии, на границе земель Тироль и Зальцбург. Это четвёртая по высоте гора в Австрии. Возвышается в виде гнейсовой пирамиды, покрытой ледниками, на водоразделе между Зальцахом и Дравой[4]. Гора является частью национального парка Высокий Тауэрн.

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