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Mera Peak is a mountain in the Mahalangur section, Barun sub-section of the Himalaya and administratively in Nepal's Sagarmatha Zone, Sankhuwasabha. At 6,476 metres (21,247 ft) it is classified as a trekking peak. It contains three main summits: Mera North, 6,476 metres (21,247 ft); Mera Central, 6,461 metres (21,198 ft); and Mera South, 6,065 metres (19,898 ft), as well as a smaller "trekking summit", visible as a distinct summit from the south but not marked on most maps of the region.

Mera Peak
Highest point
Elevation	6,476 m (21,247 ft)[1]
Prominence	1,063 m (3,488 ft)[1]
Coordinates	27°42′33″N 86°52′06″E
Geography
Mera Peak Location in Nepal
Location	Hinku Valley, Nepal
Parent range	Mahalangur Himalaya
Climbing
First ascent	Mera Central: May 20, 1953 by Col J.O.M. Roberts and Sen Tenzing; Mera North: 1975 by Marcel Jolly, G. Baus and L. Honills
Easiest route	snow/ice/glacier climb

The height of Mera is often given as 6,654 metres (21,831 ft), and claimed to be the highest trekking peak. This figure actually points to nearby Peak 41, which was mistakenly named Mera in a list of Himalayan peaks, and the figures were copied to the official trekking peak list as they were, including the wrong location coordinates.[2]

History

The region was first explored extensively by British expeditions in the early 50s before and after the ascent of Everest. Members of those teams included Edmund Hillary, Tenzing Norgay, Eric Shipton and George Lowe.[3]

The first ascent of Mera Central was on May 20, 1953 by Col. Jimmy Roberts and Sen Tenzing (who was known by the nickname The Foreign Sportsman).[4] Roberts was heavily involved in establishing the trekking industry in Nepal in the early 1960s.[5] He was posthumously awarded the "Sagarmatha (Everest) National Award" by the government in May 2005.

Mera North is believed to have first been climbed by the French climbers Marcel Jolly, G. Baus and L. Honills in 1975,[6] though some sources state that it was climbed on 29 October 1973 and the climbers included L. Limarques, Ang Lhakpa and two other Sherpas.[7]

In 1986 Mal Duff and Ian Tattersall made the first ascent of the south west pillar.[8] The route is approximately 1,800 metres (5,900 ft) in length and graded at ED inf. The approach to the base of the pillar is extremely exposed to serac fall.

In September 2017, Hari Budha Magar summited Mera Peak, in doing so he became the first ever double above-knee amputee to climb a mountain over 6,000m in altitude.[9]

Climbing routes

The standard route from the north involves high-altitude glacier walking. The west and south faces of the peak offer more difficult technical routes. Mera Peak provides the 360-degree panoramic views of 5 world highest mountains over 8000m: Mount Everest(8848m), Kangchenjunga(8586m), Lhotse(8516m), Makalu(8485m) and Cho Oyu(8201m) as well as many other peaks of Khumbu Region.

For experienced climbers it is a technically straightforward ascent, the main hurdle being proper acclimatization to the high altitude. These reasons make Mera Peak a very popular destination, with many adventure tour companies offering guided trips to the mountain for clients with little or no mountaineering experience.[10] All climbers are recommended to partake in preparative fitness and altitude training before attempting an ascent.

References

External links

• View from the summit of Mera Peak
• Panorama from the summit of Mera Peak
• Route Map of Mera Peak from Lukla
• Annotated maps and photos of Mera Peak, on Günter Seyfferth's Die Berge des Himalaya (The mountains of Himalaya) website

На других языках

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[de] Mera Peak

Der Mera Peak ist ein Sechstausender in der Khumbu-Region in Nepal, östlich von Namche Bazar.

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- [en] Mera Peak

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[fr] Pic Mera

Le pic Mera est un sommet népalais se situant en Himalaya dans la région de l'Everest plus exactement dans la vallée de l'Hinku ('Lait' en népalais). Il culmine à 6 476 m et il fait partie des trekking peaks.

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[it] Picco Mera

Il Picco Mera è una montagna nella sezione Mahalangur Himal, nella sottosezione Barun dell'Himalaya e amministrativamente nella zona Sagarmatha del Nepal, nel distretto di Solukhumbu. A 6 476 metri è classificato come picco da trekking. Contiene tre principali vette: Mera Nord (6476 m); Mera Centrale (6461 m); e Mera Sud (6065 m), nonché una più piccola "cima da trekking", visibile come una vetta distinta da sud, ma non segnata sulla maggior parte delle mappe della regione.

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