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Peak Ozodi (Russian: Пик Озоди), (until 2020 Korzhenevskoi Peak, Russian: Пик Корженевской) is the third highest peak in the Pamir Mountains of Tajikistan. It is one of the five "Snow Leopard Peaks" in the territory of the former Soviet Union. It is named after Evgenia Korzhenevskaya, the wife of Russian geographer Nikolai L. Korzhenevskiy, who discovered the peak in August 1910.

Korzhenevskoi Peak
Пик Озоди
Highest point
Elevation7,105 m (23,310 ft)[1]
Prominence1,650 m (5,410 ft)[1]
Isolation11.6 km (7.2 mi) 
ListingUltra
Coordinates39°03′27″N 72°00′30″E[1]
Geography
Korzhenevskaya
Location in Tajikistan
LocationGBAO, Tajikistan
Parent rangeAcademy of Sciences Range (Pamirs)
Climbing
First ascent1953 by A. Ugarov et al.
Easiest routerock/snow/ice climb

Due to transliteration and declension issues the peak's name is rendered in many different ways, including Korzhenevski, Korzhenevskoi, and Korzhenievsky.


Location


Peak Korzhenevskaya lies about 13 km (8.1 mi) north of Ismoil Somoni Peak (formerly Communism Peak), the highest point of the Pamirs. It forms the end of the northwest fork of the Academy of Sciences Range, the north–south trending subrange which forms the core of the Pamirs. It rises on the south bank of the Muksu River, and to the west of the peak is the Fortambek Glacier. While most of the Academy of Sciences Range is in Tajikistan's Gorno-Badakhshan Autonomous Province (GBAO), Korzhenevskoi is located a little to the west of the GBAO line, in Jirgatol district (Region of Republican Subordination).


Notable features


Korzhenevskoi Peak is one of the five seven-thousanders of the former Soviet Union (this counts Khan Tengri, which is more often given as 6,995 m) that were required for a climber to be awarded the Snow Leopard award, the highest honor given to Soviet mountaineers. It is usually said to be the second easiest of these peaks to climb, after Lenin Peak. However, it is not a small mountain; its rise above local terrain rivals that of Ismoil Somoni Peak since it is closer to the deep valley of the Muksu River.


Climbing history


Descent from Korzhenevskaya. Jaan Künnap.
Descent from Korzhenevskaya. Jaan Künnap.

In 1937 D. Gushchin led an attempt on the peak which reached the lower summit (6,910 m).

Korzhenevskoi Peak was first climbed in 1953 by a party led by A. Ugarov; the summit team comprised Ugarov, B. Dimitriev, A. Goziev, A. Kovyrkov, L. Krasavin, E. Ryspajev, R. Sielidzanov, and P. Skorobogatov. They approached via the Fortambek Glacier, to the Korzhenevsky glacier, and thence to the north ridge.

Partly since it is required for the Snow Leopard award, Korzhenevskoi Peak has been climbed many times; it is the second most frequented major peak in the Pamirs, after Lenin Peak. A base camp on the moraine of the Moskvin Glacier, and helicopter access, make this possible. Korzhenevskoi Peak has been climbed from almost every direction, including a first winter ascent in 1987 by Anatoly Nosov; most of these ascents were by Russians. The most common current route on the mountain ascends from the south and attains the summit ridge from the west side.


References


  1. "The Central Asian Republics: Ultra-Prominence Page". Peaklist.org. Retrieved 2014-05-26.

Sources



На других языках


[de] Pik Korschenewskaja

Der Pik (Jewgenija) Korschenewskaja (russisch Пик Корженевской, Pik Korschenewskoi oder Пик Евгении Корженевской, Pik Jewgenii Korschenewskoi) ist mit 7105 m der dritthöchste Berg des tadschikischen Pamir. Der Berg wurde 1910 vom russischen Geographen Nikolai Leopoldowitsch Korschenewski entdeckt und nach seiner Ehefrau und Begleiterin auf Expeditionen Jewgenija Sergejewna Korschenewskaja (geb. Topornina) benannt.
- [en] Peak Ozodi

[es] Pico Korzhenevskaya

El pico Korzhenevskaya es la tercera montaña más alta de la cordillera del Pamir de Tayikistán. Su altitud es de 7105 metros y su prominencia de 1650 m[1] y es uno de los cinco "Picos del Leopardo de las Nieves" en el territorio de la antigua Unión Soviética. Debe su nombre a Evgenia Korzhenevskaya, esposa del geógrafo ruso Nikolai Korzhenevskiy, quien lo descubrió en 1910.

[fr] Pic Korjenevskoï

Le pic Korjenevskoï (tadjik : Қуллаи Корженевскӣ ; russe : Пик Корженевской) est le troisième pic le plus haut des Pamir du Tadjikistan. C'est l'un des cinq « pics des léopards des neiges » de l'ancienne Union soviétique. Il a été baptisé du nom d'Evguenia Korjenevskaïa, l'épouse du géographe russe Nikolaï L. Korjenevski.

[it] Picco Korženevskaja

Il picco Korženevskaja[2] (in russo Пик Корженевской, pik Korženevskoj o anche pik Evgenii Korženevskoj) è la terza vetta più alta tra le montagne del Pamir in Tagikistan. Prende il nome da Evgenija Korženevskaja, la moglie del geografo russo Nikolaj Leopol'dovič Korženevskij, che ha scoperto il picco nell'agosto 1910.

[ru] Пик Озоди

Пик Озоди[2] (тадж. Қуллаи Озодӣ, «пик Свободы», до 2020 года — Пик Коржене́вской[3][4]) — гора высотой 7105 м в северной части хребта Академии Наук[3], в 13 км к северу от пика Исмоила Сомони (бывшего пика Коммунизма). Является одним из пяти семитысячников бывшего СССР.



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