The Glödis (3,206m(AA)) is one of the most regularly formed summits in the Schober Group in East Tyrol, hence its sobriquet, the "Matterhorn of the Schober Group". It is an impressive sight both from the Debanttal valley and the valley of Kalser Lesachtal.
13 July 1871 by J. Pöschl with guides, Gorgasser and Hutter
Normal route
Klettersteig along the southeast arête (grade B)
Name
Franz Miklosich derives the name from the Slavic word gledna (= "seeing").[1]
According to Heinz Pohl, however, there are 2 possible derivations: either from the early Slovenian glodišće (= "place gnawed away by water", from glodati = "to gnaw"), but this link is phonetically difficult; or more probably from glodež which has a similar meaning.[2]
In the Debanttal valley the mountain was for a long time called the Großer Gößnitzkopf. Its other names include Klöders and Granatkogel.[1]
Routes
The best ascent option is from the Lienzer Hut (1,977mabove sea level (AA)) along the Franz Keil Way, then on to the Kalser Törl and finally along the southeast arête. In autumn 2006 a klettersteig was installed on the southeast ridge which is of moderate difficulty (grade B). Other well known routes are:
Southwest ridge from the Kalser Törl (II–III, in one place III+), popular, often used[3]
Northeast ridge from Glödistörl (III-), boulder-strewn
West ridge (IV–V), most difficult arête of the Glödis
South ridge (III+), solid rock, rarely used
References
Walter Mair: Schobergruppe, Alpine Club Guide, Bergverlag Rudolf Rother, Munich, 1979. ISBN3-7633-1222-6
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