geo.wikisort.org - Mountains

Search / Calendar

The Aiguille du Grépon (literally the Needle of Grépon), informally known as The Grepon, is a mountain in the Mont Blanc Massif in Haute-Savoie, France. The Grepon has a Southern (3,482 m) and Northern (3,478 m) peak, which are the highest points of a sharp granite ridge to the east of the Glacier des Nantillons above Chamonix and northeast of the Aiguille du Midi. A madonna statue is situated on the Southern peak.

Aiguille du Grépon
The Grépon as seen from the south from Pointe Helbronner, showing the SW ridge and E face.
Highest point
Elevation3,482 m (11,424 ft)
Coordinates45°54′09″N 06°55′09″E
Geography
Aiguille du Grépon
France
LocationHaute-Savoie, France
Parent rangeMont Blanc Massif
Climbing
First ascent5 August 1881, by Albert F. Mummery, Alexander Burgener and Benedikt Venetz

Climbing history


The first ascent was made in 1881 by the Swiss climbers Alexander Burgener and Benedikt Venetz guiding Albert F. Mummery from England. This team had climbed one of the peaks of the neighboring Aiguille des Grands Charmoz the previous year. Two days after an attempt on the East face was found too challenging, they climbed up the couloir separating the Charmoz and Grepon from the Nantillons site to climb the Grepon over the north ridge. The party took a very difficult narrow chimney from just below the col between the peaks. Though Venetz discovered the route and was the lead climber through it,[1] this vertical crevice became famous as Mummery's crack. The party reached the Northern summit, built a cairn and returned, but Mummery wondered at night if the Southern summit they had seen may have been higher. Thus the party came back over the same route two days later and completed a traverse to the highest crag, which involved some abseiling, "a broad road suitable for carriages, bicycles, or other similar conveyances", and more spectacular final lead climbing by Venetz, who hauled Mummery to the top after he slipped halfway. The second ascent leader, François Henri Dunod, partly brought up three ladders as he had heard stories of the difficulty of this last pitch, though it turned out there was an easier crack to the top.[1] More than 20 years later this rock climb was still considered to be one of the most difficult in the Alps.[2]

Albert Mummery in Mummery's crack in 1893 as photographed by Lily Bristow
Albert Mummery in Mummery's crack in 1893 as photographed by Lily Bristow

Other climbing events:


Statue


Since 1927, at the top of the needle stands a statue of Our Lady of La Salette, 1.20 m high. With its weight of 44 kg, it was mounted on the back of a man on June 22, 1927 by eight guides of Chamonix members of the Jeunesse catholique.


References


  1. Mummery, Albert F. (1895). "My climbs in the Alps and Caucasus". London: T. F. Unwin. pp. 120–150. Retrieved 2016-12-26.
  2. O. K. Williamson (1904) Note on the Aiguille du Grépon. The Climber Club Journal, vol 7. pp 190-191



На других языках


[de] Aiguille du Grépon

Die Aiguille du Grépon ist ein Alpengipfel im Montblanc-Massiv mit einer Höhe von 3482 m. Der Grépon ist der höchste Punkt eines scharfen Granitgrats östlich des Glacier des Nantillons oberhalb von Chamonix und nordöstlich der Aiguille du Midi.
- [en] Aiguille du Grépon

[fr] Aiguille du Grépon

L'aiguille du Grépon, ou simplement Le Grépon, est l'une des aiguilles de Chamonix, dans le massif du Mont-Blanc. Elle culmine à 3 482 m d'altitude. Elle présente une crête crénelée de plusieurs pointes : le sommet Nord (3 478 m), le Grand Gendarme (3 472 m), le Gendarme (3 473 m), le sommet Sud (point culminant) et la pointe Balfour (3 475 m).

[it] Aiguille du Grépon

L'Aiguille du Grépon (3.482 m s.l.m.) è una montagna della catena delle Aiguilles de Chamonix, nel massiccio del Monte Bianco.



Текст в блоке "Читать" взят с сайта "Википедия" и доступен по лицензии Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike; в отдельных случаях могут действовать дополнительные условия.

Другой контент может иметь иную лицензию. Перед использованием материалов сайта WikiSort.org внимательно изучите правила лицензирования конкретных элементов наполнения сайта.

2019-2024
WikiSort.org - проект по пересортировке и дополнению контента Википедии