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Pisco is a mountain in Peru, located in the Cordillera Blanca about 60 km north of Huaraz. It was first climbed on July 12, 1951 by C. Kogan, G. Kogan, R.Leininger and M. Lenoir.

Pisco
Pisco and Chacraraju reflection at Yanapaccha base camp
Highest point
Elevation5,752 m (18,871 ft)
ListingList of mountains in the Andes
Coordinates09°0′42.6″S 77°37′52.1″W
Geography
Pisco
Peru
Parent rangeCordillera Blanca, Andes
Climbing
First ascentJuly 12, 1951
Easiest routeglacier/snow

Previously, this mountain was popular for its easy climb. However, the primary climbing route has melted significantly.[citation needed] As a result, this mountain is no longer the easy climb it once was and depending on the season Pisco has a large ice wall with a 50-60 metre climb up a 60 degree slope. It is now rated as PD on the French Alpine scale. It is predicted that this mountain will get more difficult as the glacier continues to recede.

There are a multitude of companies in Huaraz offering guided climbs of the mountain, which usually include all equipment, food, transport, guide, and possibly a porter. The normal route is from the road to the south, up to the col to the west, then to the summit. There are two or three camps on the mountain and one at its base, although climbers often only use one. The first is next to the road and river on the valley floor, known as Cebollapampa. The second is in or next to Refugio Perú (9°1′46.6″S 77°37′46.4″W at 4,765 m). The third, called the 'moraine camp' (9°1′24″S 77°38′31″W) lies just below the ice of the first glacier. It is also possible to set up a camp in the col right on the glacier, as there is a convenient flat part. Some parties travel from Huaraz and climb to the moraine camp in one day, then summit and return to Huaraz the next.

Climbing involves mostly walking on snow slopes up to 35 degrees, but there is one section of about 100m of steep ice. Views from the mountain are superb, encompassing many of the other well known mountains of the Cordillera Blanca, such as Huascarán, Chopicalqui, Artesonraju, and Alpamayo.

The altitude makes the climb very difficult for anyone not well acclimatised or fit, and even those who are will be slowed. Sleeping at the two high camps is also difficult. Possible sleeping in the third camp on the ice requires proper equipment.

The youngest person ever to climb Pisco, was Liv Jensen, at age 11, on July 5, 2018.




На других языках


- [en] Pisco (mountain)

[es] Nevado Pisco

El Nevado Pisco (quechua: pishqu, 'pájaro') es una montaña de la Cordillera Blanca dentro del parque nacional Huascarán, que forma parte de los Andes Peruanos, ubicado en la provincia de Yungay en la región Áncash.

[fr] Pisco (montagne)

Le Pisco, Nevado Pisco (du quechua pishqu, « oiseau ») ou Mataraju, est un sommet de la cordillère Blanche dans les Andes au Pérou. Il est situé à environ 60 km au nord de la ville de Huaraz. Il est gravi pour la première fois le 12 juillet 1951 par l'expédition franco-belge composée de Claude Kogan, Georges Kogan, Raymond Leininger et Maurice Lenoir.

[it] Nevado Pisco

Il Nevado Pisco (5.760 m) è una montagna del Perù, situata nella Cordillera Blanca.

[ru] Писко (гора)

Писко (исп. Pisco); часто встречается как Невадо-Писко (исп. Nevado Pisco) — двухвершинная гора в Перу, расположенная в горном хребте Кордильера-Бланка, примерно в 60 километрах к северу от города Уарас. Писко находится в национальном парке Уаскаран, одной из самых живописных горных местностей в Перу. В 1985 году, национальный парк признан объектом всемирного наследия ЮНЕСКО.[2]



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