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Muztagh Tower (Urdu: مز تاغ ٹاور), also: Mustagh Tower; Muztagh: ice tower), is a mountain in the Baltoro Muztagh, part of the Karakoram range in Baltistan on the border of the Gilgit–Baltistan region of Pakistan and the Xinjiang Uyghur Autonomous Region of China.[2] It stands between the basins of the Baltoro and Sarpo Laggo glaciers.

Muztagh Tower
مز تاغ ٹاور
Muztagh Tower in 2004
Highest point
Elevation7,276 m (23,871 ft)[1]
Ranked 90th
Prominence1,710 m (5,610 ft)[1]
ListingUltra
Coordinates35°49′36″N 76°21′42″E[1]
Geography
Muztagh Tower
مز تاغ ٹاور
Baltistan, Gilgit–Baltistan, Pakistan
Tashkurgan, Xinjiang, China, China–Pakistan border
Muztagh Tower
مز تاغ ٹاور
Muztagh Tower
مز تاغ ٹاور (Gilgit Baltistan)
Muztagh Tower
مز تاغ ٹاور
Muztagh Tower
مز تاغ ٹاور (Xinjiang)
Parent rangeKarakoram
Climbing
First ascent6 July 1956 by a British team
Easiest routeglacier/snow/ice climb

Early prominence


Vittorio Sella's photograph of the Muztagh Tower, which was to inspire the first ascent
Vittorio Sella's photograph of the Muztagh Tower, which was to inspire the first ascent

The Mustagh Tower was the subject of a photograph taken by Vittorio Sella during the 1909 Italian expedition to K2. Taken from the upper Baltoro, due southeast of the mountain, the twin summits were perfectly aligned and the mountain was seen as a slender tooth, and looked impregnable. In 1941, the photograph was featured in a book on mountaineering with the caption "The Last Citadel".[3]


First and second ascents


Nearly fifty years after Sella's photo was taken, in 1956, his photograph inspired two expeditions to race for the first ascent. Both teams found their routes less steep than Sella's view had suggested.[4] The British expedition, consisting of John Hartog, Joe Brown, Tom Patey and Ian McNaught-Davis, came from the Chagaran Glacier on the west side of the peak and reached the summit via the Northwest Ridge first on 6 July,[5][6] five days before the French team (fr:Guido Magnone, fr:Robert Paragot, André Contamine, Paul Keller) climbed the mountain from the east.[7] François Florence waited for the two parties at the camp IV during 42 hours without a radio, when they went, reached the summit and came back to this camp.[8]


Notable ascents and attempts


A lower summit, 7,180 m (23,560 ft) was first climbed in 1984 by the northeast ridge.[citation needed]


See also



Notes


  1. Prominent Karkoram peaks on peaklist.org; Peakbagger reports 7,273 metres elev. and 1,707 metres prom.
  2. "Muztagh Tower - Peakbagger.com".
  3. Ullman, James Ramsey (1941). High Conquest: The Story of Mountaineering. J. B. Lippincott Co.
  4. Curran, Jim (1995). K2: The Story of the Savage Mountain. Hodder & Stoughton. p. 66. ISBN 978-0-340-66007-2.
  5. Hartog, J.H. (1956). "The climbing of the Muztagh Tower". The Alpine Journal. 61: 253–270.
  6. Patey, Tom (1971). One Man's Mountains. pp. 135–147. ISBN 0-575-01358-3.
  7. Magnone, Guido (1957). "The Muztagh Tower". Himalayan Journal. 20: 40–50. Retrieved 4 February 2020.
  8. Jill Neate, High Asia: an illustrated history of the 7,000 metre peaks, The Mountaineers, 1989, ISBN 978-0-898-86238-6, pp. 117-118.
  9. Duff, Mal (1985). "The Second Ascent of the Mustagh Tower" (PDF). The Alpine Journal. 90: 74–76. Retrieved 2011-04-13.
  10. Greig, Andrew (1985). Summit Fever: The Story of an Armchair Climber on the 1984 Mustagh Tower Expedition. Hutchinson. ISBN 0-09-162060-0.
  11. Kropp, Göran; Lagercrantz, David (2000). Ultimate High: My Everest Odyssey. Discovery Channel. ISBN 1-56331-936-5.
  12. Nunn, Paul (1991–92). "Karakoram 1990" (PDF). The Alpine Journal. 96: 241.
  13. "Interview with Dejan Miškovič (slovene language)". Sport1. 2008-09-12. Archived from the original on 2009-03-01. Retrieved 2008-09-16.
  14. "Risk.ru - Музтаг Тауэр 2012. Экспедиция ФАиС г.Москвы. Вершина!!! (russian language)". Risk.ru. 2012-08-25.
  15. "Short film about ascent (on english)". Archived from the original on 2013-07-30.



На других языках


[de] Muztagh Tower

Der Muztagh Tower (auch: Mustagh Tower; Muztagh bedeutet „Eisturm“; Urdu .mw-parser-output .Arab a,.mw-parser-output a bdi.Arab{text-decoration:none!important}.mw-parser-output .Arab{font-size:120%}مضطاغ ٹاور) ist ein 7273 m hoher Berg im Karakorum.
- [en] Muztagh Tower

[es] Torre Muztagh

La Torre Muztagh (también Torre Mustagh; Muztagh: Torre de hielo) es una montaña situada en el Baltoro Muztagh, subcordillera del Karakórum en el norte de Pakistán. Está en las cuencas de los glaciares Baltoro y Sarpo Laggo.

[fr] Tour de Mustagh

La tour de Mustagh ou tour de Muztagh est une énorme pyramide rocheuse située dans le massif du Karakoram, entre le Pakistan et la Chine. Longtemps considéré comme inaccessible, ce sommet demeure l'une des ascensions les plus difficiles du Karakoram. Il est situé en amont du glacier du Baltoro.

[ru] Музтаг-Тауэр

Музта́г-Тауэр (урду مضطاغ ٹاور‎, англ. Muztagh Tower, в переводе Башня Музтаг) (7273[1] м или 7245[2] м) — это гора, расположенная в хребте Балторо Музтаг, часть горной системы Каракорум в Гилгит-Балтистане. Гора находится между двумя ледниками: Балторо и Сарпо Лагго. Музтаг-Тауэр — 91 по высоте вершина мира. Название Музтаг означает в переводе с уйгурского «ледяная гора».



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