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Machapuchare, Machhapuchchhre or Machhapuchhre (from Nepali माछापुच्छ्रे  'fishtail', Tamu: कतासुँ क्लिको), is a mountain situated in the Annapurna massif of Gandaki Province, north-central Nepal. Its highest peak has never been officially climbed due to the impossibility of gaining a permit from the government of Nepal.

Machapuchare
Machhapuchhre (Fishtail Mountain)
Machapuchare
Highest point
Elevation6,993 m (22,943 ft)[1]
Prominence1,233 m (4,045 ft)[1]
Coordinates28°29′42″N 83°56′57″E
Naming
Native nameकतासुँ क्लिको  (Gurung)
Geography
Machapuchare
Location in Nepal
LocationNorth Central Nepal
Parent rangeAnnapurna Himalayas
Climbing
First ascentUnclimbed (ascents not allowed)

Location


Machapuchare is at the end of a long spur ridge, coming south out of the main backbone of the Annapurna massif, which forms the eastern boundary of the Annapurna Sanctuary. The peak is about 25 km (16 mi) north of the provincial headquarter of Pokhara. The sanctuary is a favorite trekking destination, and the site of the base camps for the South Face of Annapurna and for numerous smaller objectives. The Mardi Himal trek, for instance, climbs towards a minor peak.


Notable features


Due to its southern position in the range and the particularly low terrain that lies south of the Annapurna Himalayas, which contains three of the 10 highest peaks in the world, Machapuchare commands tremendous vertical relief in a short horizontal distance. This, combined with its steep, pointed profile, makes it a particularly striking peak, despite a lower elevation than some of its neighbors. Its double summit resembles the tail of a fish, hence the name meaning "fish's tail" in Nepalese. It is also nicknamed the "Matterhorn of Nepal".

It is a sacred peak for the Gurungs and the people of Chomrong.[2]


Climbing history


It is believed that Machapuchare has never been climbed to its summit. The only confirmed attempt was in 1957 by a British team led by Lieutenant Colonel Jimmy Roberts. Climbers Wilfrid Noyce and A. D. M. Cox climbed to within 150 m (492 ft) of the summit via the north ridge, to an approximate altitude of 22,793 ft (6,947 m). Adhering to the word of honor given to the then King Mahendra, Noyce and his team descended without stepping on to the summit - thus publishing the only climbing record of the mountain a year later.[3] No permits to climb the mountain have been issued since then. The mountain is said to be sacred as a home to the god Shiva.[4][5]

There have been reports of a New Zealand climber, Bill Denz, making a successful yet illegal attempt to the summit in the early 1980s.[6]


Sources



References


  1. "Machapuchare". Peakbagger.com.
  2. Vallangi, Neelima. "The Himalayan peak off limits to climbers". www.bbc.com. Retrieved 22 February 2021.
  3. Noyce, Wilfrid (1998) [1958]. Climbing the fish's tail. Pilgrims Book House. ISBN 978-8173031007. OCLC 857085947.
  4. Porter, John (2014). One day as a tiger : Alex Macintyre and the birth of light and fast alpinism. Sheffield: Vertebrate Publishing. p. 238. ISBN 978-1-910240-09-0. OCLC 893387833.
  5. "Mt. Machhapuchhre: Should it be opened for climbing?". HoneyGuide. 30 July 2015. Retrieved 30 October 2019.
  6. AnOther (22 July 2016). "The Untouched Holy Mountain of Nepal". AnOther. Retrieved 30 October 2019.



На других языках


[de] Machapuchare

Machapuchare (auch Machhapuchhare, Machhapuchchhre, Nepali .mw-parser-output .Deva{font-size:120%}@media all and (min-width:800px){.mw-parser-output .Deva{font-size:calc(120% - ((100vw - 800px)/80))}}@media all and (min-width:1000px){.mw-parser-output .Deva{font-size:100%}}माछापुच्छ्रे हिमाल IAST .mw-parser-output .Latn{font-family:"Akzidenz Grotesk","Arial","Avant Garde Gothic","Calibri","Futura","Geneva","Gill Sans","Helvetica","Lucida Grande","Lucida Sans Unicode","Lucida Grande","Stone Sans","Tahoma","Trebuchet","Univers","Verdana"}Māchhāpuchchhre Himāl, deutsch ‚Fischschwanz‘) ist ein 6997 m hoher Berg im Himalaya in Nepal.
- [en] Machapuchare

[es] Machapuchare

Machapuchare o Machhaphuchhare es una montaña de los Annapurna en Nepal. Es venerado por la población local como particularmente sagrado para el dios Shivá, y por lo tanto no está permitida la escalada.

[fr] Machapuchare

Le Machapuchare, Machhaphuchhare ou Machhapuchhre est une montagne de 6 993 mètres d'altitude dans l'Himalaya, dans la partie centrale du Népal. Son nom signifie « queue de poisson » en népalais en raison de son double sommet aisément identifiable de loin. Il est considéré comme particulièrement sacré par la population locale et par conséquent interdit aux alpinistes.

[it] Machapuchare

Machapuchare (o Machchapuchchare) è una montagna nell'Himalaya nepalese, alta 6993 metri; si erge di fronte alla città di Pokhara, ed è una montagna sacra per le popolazioni locali; per la sua forma slanciata ed il panorama in cui si inserisce, è considerata una delle più spettacolari al mondo.

[ru] Мачапучаре

Мачапучаре[уточнить] (непальск. माछापुछ्रे — «Рыбий хвост», англ. Machapuchare) — гора высотой 6998 м, входящая в состав горного массива Аннапурна в Гималаях на севере центрального Непала. Своим названием «Рыбий хвост» гора обязана форме двух её вершин, которые при взгляде с запада образуют фигуру, напоминающую хвост гигантской рыбы. Местным населением гора почитается как дом бога Шивы, а перья снега считаются дымом его божественной сущности[2].



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