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The Latok (Urdu: لیٹوک) group is a small cluster of dramatic rock peaks in the Panmah Muztagh, part of the central Karakoram mountain range in Pakistan. They lie just to the east of the Ogre group, dominated by Baintha Brakk. To the immediate south of the Latok group lies the Baintha Lukpar Glacier, a small tributary of the Biafo Glacier, one of the main glaciers of the Karakoram. On the north side of the group lies the Choktoi Glacier.

Latok I
لیٹوک
Latok Peaks and the Ogres thumb
Highest point
Elevation7,145 m (23,442 ft)[1]
Prominence1,475 m (4,839 ft)[1]
Coordinates35.9280°N 75.8225°E / 35.9280; 75.8225
Geography
Latok
Location of the Latok within the greater Karakoram region
Latok
Latok (Gilgit Baltistan)
LocationGilgit-Baltistan, Pakistan
Parent rangePanmah Muztagh, Karakoram
Climbing
First ascentJuly 19, 1979 by Sin'e Matsumi, Tsuneo Shigehiro, Yu Watanabe[2]
Easiest routeEast Ridge from south side

The group comprises four main summits, each listed here with its relative position in the group, elevation,[1] and first ascent date:


Climbing history


All of the summits are notable for their extreme technical difficulty, and they have been the scene of some of the hardest climbing done at high altitude anywhere in the world.

Latok II
Highest point
Elevation7,108 m (23,320 ft)[1]
Prominence1,475 m (4,839 ft) 
Coordinates35.9200°N 75.8025°E / 35.9200; 75.8025
Geography
LocationNorthern Areas, Pakistan
Parent rangePanmah Muztagh, Karakoram
Climbing
First ascent1977 by Ezio Alimonta, Toni Masé, Renato Valentini[5]
Easiest routeSoutheast Buttress
Latok III
Highest point
Elevation6,949 m (22,799 ft)[1]
Prominence1,475 m (4,839 ft) 
Coordinates35.9204°N 75.8396°E / 35.9204; 75.8396
Geography
LocationNorthern Areas, Pakistan
Parent rangePanmah Muztagh, Karakoram
Climbing
First ascentJuly 15, 1979 by Yoji Teranishi, Kazushige Takami, Sakae Mori[2]
Easiest routeSouthwest Ridge

References


  1. Heights in this article are taken from the map Karakoram, 1:250,000, Swiss Foundation for Alpine Research. A survey under the leadership of Professor Arturo Bergamaschi gives the heights as follows:
    • Latok I: 7,086 m
    • Latok II: 7,151 m
    • Latok III: 6,860 m
    Bergamaschi proposed that the designations of Latok I and Latok II be switched; however, most sources continue to refer to the central peak as Latok I and the western peak as Latok II, as does this article. See the American Alpine Journal, 1998, pp. 320-321. If Professor Bergamaschi's results are correct, then Latok II is the highest of the group, and would have a prominence of approximately 1,481 m; the prominence of Latok I would be greatly reduced.
  2. American Alpine Journal, 1980, 647-648
  3. "Latok I Climbed from the North, but North Ridge Remains Incomplete". 14 August 2018.
  4. Routen, Ash (2018-08-21). "British mountaineer in 'climb of generation' watched Russian attempt end in tragedy before him". The Telegraph. ISSN 0307-1235. Retrieved 2018-08-21.
  5. Jill Neate, High Asia: An Illustrated History of the 7000 Metre Peaks, ISBN 0-89886-238-8
  6. Andy Fanshawe and Stephen Venables, Himalaya Alpine-Style, Hodder and Stoughton, 1995, ISBN 0-340-64931-3
  7. American Alpine Journal, 1998, 34-43
  8. "Pak Army rescued a Russian Climber from Latok on 31 July, 2018". The Express Tribune. Retrieved 1 August 2018.
  9. "Major General Asif Ghafoor's Tweet". Twitter.com. Retrieved 1 August 2018.
  10. "Pakistani pilots pull off daring rescue". dreamwanderlust.com. 6 August 2018.
  11. "Latok I keeps on surprising this summer; climbed after 1979". dreamwanderlust.com. 23 August 2018.

На других языках


[de] Latok-Gruppe

Die Latok-Gruppe ist eine Gruppe von drei ca. 7000 m hohen Bergen im Panmah Muztagh im Karakorum in Pakistan.
- [en] Latok

[es] Grupo Latok

El Grupo Latok es un conjunto de picos de roca de pronunciadas pendientes en la subcordillera del Panmah Muztagh, en la parte central de la cordillera del Karakórum. Se encuentran justo a la izquierda del Grupo Ogre, dominado por el Baintha Brakk. Justo al sur se encuentra el Glaciar Baintha Lukpar, un pequeño glaciar tributario del Glaciar Biafo, uno de los glaciares más importantes del Karakórum. Al norte del Grupo se encuentra el Glaciar Choktoi.

[fr] Latok

Le Latok est une montagne située dans le Nord du Pakistan, dans le Karakoram. Il culmine à 7 145 mètres d'altitude au Latok I, sa cime principale.



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