K12 is the second highest peak in the Saltoro Mountains, a subrange of the Karakoram range in the Siachen region of Ladakh. Its name comes from its designation given during the original survey of the Karakoram range. In 1984, an Indian army expedition under Colonel Prem Chand took hold of this peak, from the side of Siachen glacier by traversing from the west.[2]

K12
K12 Saltoro Ridge, Siachen, Actual Ground Position Line Show map of Karakoram K12 K12 (Ladakh) Show map of Ladakh K12 K12 (Gilgit Baltistan) Show map of Gilgit Baltistan
Highest point
Elevation	7,428 m (24,370 ft)[1] Ranked 61st
Prominence	1,978 m (6,490 ft)[1]
Listing	Ultra
Coordinates	35°17′42″N 77°01′18″E [1]
Geography
Location	Saltoro Ridge, Siachen, Actual Ground Position Line
Parent range	Saltoro Mountains, Karakoram
Climbing
First ascent	1974 by Shinichi Takagi, Tsutomu Ito (Japanese)
Easiest route	snow/ice climb

K12 lies to the southwest of the Siachen Glacier; the K12 glacier heads on its northeast slopes and feeds the Siachen. The western slopes of K12 drain to the Bilafond Glacier system, and thence to the Dansam River, and eventually the Indus River.

K12 had been used as the objective for training Indian Army Mount Everest expedition in 1985.[3] Apart from this, K12 has seen little climbing activity, partly because of the unsettled political situation and the continued military presence in the area. It was first attempted in 1960, after a reconnaissance visit by famed explorer Eric Shipton in 1957. After a further unsuccessful attempt by a Japanese party in 1971, another Japanese expedition put two climbers, Shinichi Takagi and Tsutomu Ito, on the summit. They fell and died on the descent, and their bodies were not recovered. Another Japanese expedition returned in 1975 and made the second ascent.

See also

• List of Ultras of the Western Himalayas
• Siachen conflict
• Actual Ground Position Line
• Indira Col
• Sia La
• Ghent Kangri
• Saltoro Kangri
• Bilafond La
• Chumik Glacier
• Gyong La
• NJ9842

References

Sources

• Jerzy Wala, Orographical Sketch Map of the Karakoram, Swiss Foundation for Alpine Research, 1990.
• Jill Neate, High Asia: an illustrated history of the 7,000 metre peaks, The Mountaineers, 1989.

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