Gasherbrum IV (Urdu: گاشر برم -4; simplified Chinese: 加舒尔布鲁木IV峰; traditional Chinese: 加舒爾布魯木IV峰; pinyin: Jiāshūěrbùlǔmù IV Fēng), surveyed as K3, is the 17th highest mountain on Earth and the 6th highest in Pakistan. It is one of the peaks in the Gasherbrum massif.

Gasherbrum IV
Gasherbrum IV from Baltoro Glacier
Highest point
Elevation	7,925 m (26,001 ft)[1] Ranked 17th
Prominence	718 m (2,356 ft)[2]
Coordinates	35°45′30″N 76°37′0″E[2]
Geography
Gasherbrum IV Location of Gasherbrum IV Show map of Pakistan Gasherbrum IV Gasherbrum IV (Gilgit Baltistan) Show map of Gilgit Baltistan
Location	Gilgit-Baltistan region, Pakistan
Parent range	Baltoro Muztagh, Karakoram
Climbing
First ascent	August 6, 1958 by Walter Bonatti and Carlo Mauri
Easiest route	snow/ice climb

The Gasherbrums are a remote group of peaks located at the northeastern end of the Baltoro Glacier in the Karakoram range of the Himalaya. The massif contains three of the world's 8,000 metre peaks (if one includes Broad Peak). Gasherbrum is often claimed to mean "Shining Wall", presumably a reference to the highly visible west face of Gasherbrum IV; but in fact, it comes from "rgasha" (beautiful) and "brum" (mountain) in Balti, hence it actually means "beautiful mountain."[3]

Notable ascents and attempts

• 1958 First ascent by Walter Bonatti and Carlo Mauri on an Italian expedition led by Riccardo Cassin via the northeast ridge and the north summit. Traversing the pinnacled ridge to the main summit was considered the crux of the climb.[4]
• 1985 First ascent of the 2,500 m (8,200 ft) high west face ("Shining Wall") by Wojciech Kurtyka (Poland) and Robert Schauer [de] (Austria). However, bad weather, depletion of food and fuel, and extreme exhaustion forced them to stop at the north summit.[4] The editors of Climbing magazine considered it the greatest achievement of mountaineering in the twentieth century.^{[citation needed]}
• 1986 First ascent of the northwest ridge by Greg Child, Tim Macartney-Snape and Tom Hargis, involving an open bivouac on the north summit. This was the second ascent of Gasherbrum IV.[4][5]
• 1997 First complete ascent of the west face by a Korean team, via the central spur. Bang Jung-ho, Kim Tong-kwan and Yoo Huk-jae reached the summit after a sieged ascent quoted as 5.10 A3.[4]
• 1999 Second ascent of the northwest ridge by Kang Yeon-ryong and Yun Chi-won, part of a 13-member Korean team.[4]
• 2008 Third ascent of the northwest ridge by a Spanish team composed of Alberto Iñurrategi, Juan Vallejo, José Carlos Tamayo, Mikel Zabalza, and Ferran Latorre.[6] The team did not get to the main summit, but stopped at a minor peak a short distance from the true summit.[7]

See also

• List of mountains in Pakistan
• List of highest mountains

References

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На других языках

[de] Gasherbrum IV

[es] Gasherbrum IV

[fr] Gasherbrum IV

[it] Gasherbrum IV

[ru] Гашербрум IV