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Monte Fitz Roy (also known as Cerro Chaltén, Cerro Fitz Roy, or simply Mount Fitz Roy) is a mountain in Patagonia, on the border between Argentina and Chile.[2][3][6][4][5] It is located in the Southern Patagonian Ice Field, near El Chaltén village and Viedma Lake. It was first climbed in 1952 by French alpinists Lionel Terray and Guido Magnone.

Monte Fitz Roy
Monte Fitz Roy in 2013
Highest point
Elevation3,405 m (11,171 ft)[1]
Prominence1,951 m (6,401 ft)[1]
ListingUltra
Coordinates49°16′16.6″S 73°02′35.6″W
Geography
Monte Fitz Roy
Location in the Southern Patagonia, on the border between Argentina and Chile[2][3][4][5]
LocationPatagonia, Argentina—Chile border[2][3][4][5]
CountryArgentina
Chile
Parent rangeAndes
Geology
Mountain typeGranite
Climbing
First ascent1952 by Lionel Terray & Guido Magnone
Easiest routeFranco Argentina (650m., 6a+, 6c/A1)

European discovery


The first Europeans recorded as seeing Mount Fitz Roy were the Spanish explorer Antonio de Viedma and his companions, who reached the shores of Viedma Lake in 1783. Argentine explorer Francisco Moreno saw the mountain on 2 March 1877; he named it Fitz Roy in honour of Robert FitzRoy who, as captain of HMS Beagle, had travelled up the Santa Cruz River in 1834 and charted large parts of the Patagonian coast.[7]

Cerro is a Spanish word meaning ridge or hill, while Chaltén comes from a Tehuelche (Aonikenk) word meaning "smoking mountain", because a cloud usually forms around the mountain's peak. Fitz Roy is one of several peaks the Tehuelche called Chaltén.[7]


Setting


Argentina and Chile have agreed that their international border detours eastwards to pass over the main summit,[2] but a large part of the border to the south of the summit, as far as Cerro Murallón, remains undefined.[8] The mountain is the symbol of the Argentine Santa Cruz Province, which includes its representation on its flag and its coat of arms.

Nevertheless, most of the summit remains in uncontested Argentinian territory, including its famous peak -which is inaccessible from the Chilean side- and even enjoying its sight remains -in practical terms- pretty much restricted to the Eastern slopes of the Andes.

It's thus generally considered as a landscape of the Argentine republic.


Notable ascents


Fitz Roy and lake Capri - Parque Nacional Los Glaciares
Fitz Roy and lake Capri - Parque Nacional Los Glaciares

See also



References


  1. "Argentina and Chile, Southern - Patagonia Ultra Prominences". Peaklist.org. Retrieved 5 October 2013.
  2. "Border agreement between Chile and Argentina to determine the border from Mount Fitz Roy to Daudet". 1998. Archived from the original on 31 May 2016. Retrieved 7 August 2006.
  3. "Mount Fitz Roy - Difrol.cl". Archived from the original on 24 August 2018. Retrieved 26 June 2016.
  4. La montaña que parece echar humo, en la Patagonia
  5. La silueta del Fitz Roy www.interpatagonia.com, accessed 21 June 2021
  6. MONTE FITZ ROY Andes Hand Book, www.andeshandbook.org, accessed 21 June 2021
  7. Moreno, FP (2006) [1879]. Viaje a la Patagonia Austral (in Spanish). La Nacion (Elefante Blanco). p. 2. ISBN 987-96054-7-0. Como este volcán activo no ha sido mencionado por los navegantes ni viajeros, y como el nombre de Chaltén que le dan los indios lo aplican también a otras montañas, me permito llamarle volcán Fitz Roy - English: Since this active volcano has not been mentioned by navigators or travellers, and since the name Chalten that the Indians call it is also applied to other mountains, I allow myself to name it Fitz Roy volcano
  8. "Map showing the border between Chile and Argentina (partly undefined)". Retrieved 26 June 2016.
  9. Silleck, H (3 February 2007). "Patagonia: Fitzroy". Summitpost.org. Summitpost.org. Retrieved 2 February 2009.
  10. MacDonald, D (15 January 2009). "Haley Solos Fitz Roy's Supercanaleta". Climbing Hot Flashes. Climbing Magazine. Retrieved 15 August 2016.
  11. Thompkins, D; Carter, HA (1969). "Fitz Roy, 1968". American Alpine Journal. 16 (43): 263–9.
  12. Patagonia. "Mountain of Storms". Patagonia. Retrieved 7 April 2020.
  13. "First chilean climb of Mount Fitz Roy - Perros Alpinos.cl". Archived from the original on 10 June 2016. Retrieved 21 May 2016.
  14. Levy, Michael (9 April 2019). "Jim Reynolds' Fitz Roy Free Solo: Putting it in Perspective with the Pros". Rock and Ice. Retrieved 24 January 2021.
  15. MacDonald, D (18 February 2014). "Caldwell, Honnold Complete Fitz Traverse". Climbing News. Climbing Magazine. Retrieved 15 August 2016.
  16. Garibotti, R. (18 February 2014). Caldwell, Honnold Finish 5k Fitz Roy Traverse. www.alpinist.com Retrieved 5 September 2018
  17. Slavsky, Bennett. "Sean Villanueva O'Driscoll Completes The Fitz Traverse Solo". Climbing Magazine. Retrieved 13 February 2021.
  18. "Patagonia Climbing on Instagram: "Congrats to @seanvillanuevaodriscoll, who just completed the Reverse Fitz Traverse... alone, with only a rope, a penny whistle and some…"". Instagram. Archived from the original on 24 December 2021. Retrieved 13 February 2021.
  19. "Piolets d'Or 2022 : trio géorgien au Saraghrar, solo belge au Fitz Roy et mention spéciale pour l'Annapurna III". Montagne Magazine. Retrieved 14 October 2022.
  20. "Colin Haley on the First Winter Solo of 'Supercanaleta,' Patagonian Classic". Climbing. 3 October 2022. Retrieved 30 October 2022.

Further reading





На других языках


[de] Fitz Roy

Der Fitz Roy, auch Cerro Fitzroy oder Cerro Chaltén, gelegentlich auch FitzRoy, ist ein 3406 Meter hoher Granitberg in den argentinisch-chilenischen Anden. Er ist eine der Hauptattraktionen im argentinischen Nationalpark Los Glaciares und gehört auch zum chilenischen Nationalpark Bernardo O’Higgins.
- [en] Fitz Roy

[es] Monte Fitz Roy

El monte Fitz Roy o cerro Chaltén, es una montaña de 3405 m s. n. m. ubicada al oriente del campo de hielo Patagónico Sur en la frontera entre Argentina y Chile,[1][2][3][4][5][6][7][8][9][10] en la Patagonia, cerca de la villa de El Chaltén. El grupo montañoso al cual pertenece conforma uno de los grandes nunataks del campo de hielo patagónico sur.[11]

[fr] Fitz Roy

Le cerro Fitz Roy, également connu sous le nom de cerro Chaltén, est une montagne située près du village d'El Chaltén, en Patagonie, à la frontière entre l'Argentine et le Chili. Le Fitz Roy se trouve dans la province de Santa Cruz (Argentine) et dans la région de Magallanes et de l'Antarctique chilien (Chili). Il a donné son nom au massif du Fitz Roy et s'élève à seulement cinq kilomètres au nord-est du cerro Torre[2]. Son altitude est de 3 405 mètres. Il a été gravi pour la première fois par les alpinistes français Lionel Terray et Guido Magnone en 1952.

[it] Monte Fitz Roy

Il monte Fitz Roy (noto anche come Cerro Chaltén) è una montagna situata in Patagonia, nel confine tra l'Argentina e il Cile. Dal lato argentino integra il parco nazionale Los Glaciares, nella provincia di Santa Cruz, e dalla parte cilena, forma parte del parco nazionale Bernardo O'Higgins. Raggiunge un'altezza di 3.405 metri sul livello del mare.

[ru] Фицрой (гора)

Фицро́й или Чальтель (исп. Cerro Fitzroy, Cerro Chaltel, Chaltén, Monte Fitz Roy) — вершина в Патагонии в пограничной области между Аргентиной и Чили (точное прохождение границы в районе горы на данный момент не определено). Высота 3405 м.



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