Chogolisa (Urdu: چوگولیزا from Chogo Ling Sa; literally "Great Hunt") is a trapezoidal mountain in the Karakoram range in the Gilgit-Baltistan region of Pakistan. It lies near the Baltoro Glacier in the Concordia region, which is home to some of the highest peaks in the world. Chogolisa has several peaks: the highest, on the southwest face (Chogolisa I), rises to 7,668 metres (25,157 ft); the second-highest at 7,654 metres on the northeast side (Chogolisa II) was named Bride Peak by Martin Conway in 1892.[3]

Chogolisa
Chogolisa seen from the "shoulder" of K2
Highest point
Elevation	7,668 m (25,157 ft)[1] Ranked 36th
Prominence	1,624 m (5,328 ft)[2]
Listing	Ultra
Coordinates	35°36′51″N 76°34′45″E[2]
Naming
Native name	چوگولیزا (Urdu)
English translation	Great Hunt
Geography
Chogolisa Location in Gilgit-Baltistan Show map of Pakistan Chogolisa Chogolisa (Gilgit Baltistan) Show map of Gilgit Baltistan
Location	Gilgit–Baltistan, Pakistan
Parent range	Karakoram
Climbing
First ascent	August 2, 1975 (Chogolisa I) 1958 (Chogolisa II)
Easiest route	Rock/snow/ice climb

In 1909, a party led by Duke of the Abruzzi reached 7,498 m (24,600 ft) from a base camp located on the northern side and a high camp on the Chogolisa saddle at 6,335 m. Bad weather stopped the party from ascending further, but their climb established a new world altitude record.[1]

Austrian mountaineers Hermann Buhl and Kurt Diemberger attempted Chogolisa in 1957 after they had successfully summitted Broad Peak behind Marcus Schmuck and Fritz Wintersteller a few weeks earlier. On June 25 they left camp I and camped in a saddle at 6,706 m on the southeast ridge. On June 27 a sudden snowstorm forced them to retreat and, on the descent, Buhl broke off a big cornice and fell into the mountain's near vertical north face. His body has never been found.[1]

On August 4, 1958, a Japanese expedition from the Academic Alpine Club Kyoto University led by Takeo Kuwabara (桑原武夫) made the first ascent of Chogolisa II, placing Masao Fujihira and Kazumasa Hirai on top. [4] [5]

The first ascent of Chogolisa I was made on August 2, 1975, by Fred Pressl and Gustav Ammerer of an Austrian expedition led by Eduard Koblmueller. Koblmueller almost suffered the same fate as Buhl, as he also fell through a snow cornice on the ascent, but he was roped and team members were able to pull him to safety.[1]

See also

• List of mountains in Pakistan
• List of highest mountains
• List of Ultras of the Karakoram and Hindu Kush

References

External links

• Chogolisa on Peakware
• Chogolisa das Grab Hermann Buhls auf BroadPeak.at (German Language)
• Northern Pakistan detailed placemarks in Google Earth

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[de] Chogolisa

[es] Chogolisa

[fr] Chogolisa

[it] Chogolisa

[ru] Чоголиза