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Changabang is a mountain in the Garhwal Himalaya of Uttarakhand, India. It is part of a group of peaks that form the northeast wall of the Nanda Devi Sanctuary. It is a particularly steep and rocky peak, and all routes on it are serious undertakings. It has been the site of many significant climbs. It does not have a high topographic prominence, being slightly lower than its near neighbour Kalanka to the east, and lower than many other peaks in the immediate vicinity, but its steep rocky profile has made it a more attractive destination than its elevation would indicate.

Changabang
North Face of Kalanka (left) and Changbang peaks from Bagini glacier
Highest point
Elevation6,864 m (22,520 ft)
Prominencecirca 300 m (1000 ft)[1]
Coordinates30°30′0″N 79°55′32″E
Geography
Changabang
Location in northern India
LocationGarhwal Division, Uttarakhand, India
Parent rangeGarhwal Himalayas
Climbing
First ascent4 June 1974 by Tashi Chewang, Balwant Sandhu, Chris Bonington, Martin Boysen, Dougal Haston, Doug Scott[2]
Easiest routeSoutheast Face/East Ridge (snow/ice climb)

First ascent


Changabang was first climbed on 4 June 1974 by an expedition led by Lt. Col Balwant Sandhu and Chris Bonington, via the Southeast Face, leading to the East Ridge. This is the easiest route on the mountain, and one of the few that is primarily a snow/ice climb, as opposed to a rock climb with some snow, ice, or mixed terrain.[2]


Notable ascents


Other notable ascents include some of the hardest climbs ever done in the Himalaya.


References


  1. This is an approximate figure, based on the 1:150,000 scale topographic map Garhwal-Himalaya-Ost, Swiss Foundation for Alpine Research.
  2. Andy Fanshawe and Stephen Venables, Himalaya Alpine-Style, Hodder and Stoughton, 1995, ISBN 0-340-64931-3
  3. Toda, Naoki (1977). "Changabang, Southwest Ridge". American Alpine Journal. New York, New York, US: American Alpine Club. 21 (51): 248.
  4. Tasker, Joe (1977). "Changabang, West Wall". American Alpine Journal. New York, New York, US: American Alpine Club. 21 (51): 248–249.
  5. Porter, John (1979). "Bandaka and Changabang" (PDF). American Alpine Journal. New York, New York, US: American Alpine Club. 22 (53): 29–35. ISSN 0065-6925.. (available also internet version, see External links)
  6. "Changabang". Alpinist. US. 1 (51): 30. 1982.
  7. Fowler, Mick (1998). "A Touch Too Much?". American Alpine Journal. Golden, Colorado, US: American Alpine Club. 40 (72): 53–68. ISBN 0-930410-78-5.
  8. Buhler, Carlos (1999). "Russian Style on Changabang". American Alpine Journal. Golden, Colorado, US: American Alpine Club. 41 (73): 106–113. ISBN 0-930410-84-X.
  9. Changabang-98
  10. El Universal Grafico Archived 29 September 2007 at the Wayback Machine
  11. Everest News 11-08-2006
  12. "NZ Alpine Team Summits Changabang after 46 years by the epochal West Ridge Route". dreamwanderlust.com. 11 May 2022.



На других языках


[de] Changabang

Der Changabang ist ein 6864 m hoher Berg im Garhwal-Himalaya in Uttarakhand (Indien).
- [en] Changabang

[es] Changabang

Changabang es una montaña en la División de Garhwal del Himalaya, en Uttarakhand, India. Forma parte de un grupo de picos que conforman la pared Noreste del Santuario Nanda Devi. Es un pico especialmente escarpado y rocoso, y todas sus rutas son seriamente complicadas. Ha sido testigo muchos ascensos a nivel mundial. No tiene una gran prominencia, siendo ligeramente más baja que la de su vecino cercano Kalanka que está al este, y más bajo que muchos picos ubicados en los alrededores. Pero su escarpado perfil rocoso lo ha convertido en un destino especialmente atractivo más que por su propia elevación.

[it] Changabang

Il Changabang è una montagna dell'Himalaya del Garhwal, nello Stato indiano dell'Uttarakhand. Fa parte delle cime che chiudono a nord-est il cosiddetto "santuario del Nanda Devi". La forma aguzza a dente di squalo e la presenza di ghiaccio su pareti molto inclinate lo rende alpinisticamente difficile da affrontare da qualunque versante, malgrado la relativamente bassa altezza delle sue pareti.

[ru] Чангабанг

Чангабанг[2] (англ. Changabang) — вершина высотой 6864 метра над уровнем моря в Гималаях в Индии в штате Уттаракханд. Первое восхождение на вершину совершили Крис Бонингтон, Даг Скотт, Дугал Хэстон, Мартин Бойсен, Бальвант Сэндху и Течи Чавенг 5 июня 1974 года. Восхождения на Чангабанг по северной стене в 1997 и 1998 годах были номинированы на самую престижную награду в альпинистском мире «Золотой ледоруб», но уступили победу восхождениям на другие вершины.



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