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Siula Grande is a mountain in the Huayhuash mountain range in the Peruvian Andes. It is 6,344 metres (20,814 ft) high and has a subpeak, Siula Chico, 6,260 m (20,540 ft) high.[2]

Siula Grande
The west face of Siula Grande taken from the col with Yerupaja.
Highest point
Elevation6,344 m (20,814 ft)
ListingMountains in Peru
Coordinates10°17′S 76°53′W
Siula Grande
Parent rangeAndes, Huayhuash
First ascentAugust 1, 1936[1]
Easiest routeglacier/snow/ice climb

Touching the Void ascent

In 1985 Siula Grande was climbed by Joe Simpson and Simon Yates. Although they ascended the West face, and thereby became the first to reach the summit by that route, they chose to descend the North Ridge, the route of the first ascent and descent in 1936. This was made almost impossible by severe weather which caused Simpson to fall and severely break his leg. All subsequent west face climbers have avoided the ridge and rappelled down the face.

Simpson and Yates's ascent was described in Simpson's book Touching the Void. The book was made into a film of the same title in 2003 and a play in 2018.

First ascents list

This is a partial list of first ascents by new routes made.

Siula Chico

Siula Chico is a subpeak about 6,260 m (20,540 ft) high separated from Siula Grande by an approximately 6,000-metre (20,000 ft) col. Mountaineers considered that the easiest route to its summit was via Siula Grande's summit and it was so climbed by Manfred Sturm's 1966 expedition.[8] Spanish alpinists Jordi Corominas and Oriol Baro made the first ascent of Chico's west face, and second ascent of the peak, in May 2007.[2]


According to some researchers the glaciers between Siula Grande and Yerupaja show a broad increase in the number, size and frequency of crevasses, and bergschrunds. As a result, climbing routes used in the 1970s are today considered impracticable.[9]


  1. "Siula Grande". Archived from the original on 2016-03-04. Retrieved 2014-07-22.
  2. Lambert 2007.
  3. Sturm 1967, p. 322.
  4. "Title unknown". American Alpine Journal: 305. 2002.
  5. Sturm 1967, p. 325.
  6. Kojzek, Pavle (1 December 2002). "Siula Grande". Retrieved 2007-12-01.
  7. "Nueva ruta en la pared noreste del Siula Grande" (in Spanish). Vertimania. 2002. Archived from the original on September 28, 2007. Retrieved 2007-12-01.
  8. Sturm 1967, p. 324.
  9. "Landscape Changes in the Andes – Peru". Retrieved January 16, 2016.

Further reading

На других языках

[de] Siula Grande

Der Siula Grande ist ein Berg in der Cordillera Huayhuash in den peruanischen Anden. Er ist 6344 m hoch und liegt auf der kontinentalen Wasserscheide zwischen Pazifischem und Atlantischem Ozean. Der Quechua-Name des Berges lautet Hatun Siwla.
- [en] Siula Grande

[es] Siula Grande

Siula Grande es una montaña de la Cordillera Huayhuash, en los Andes del Perú, en el límite de los departamentos de Lima y Huánuco. Posee una altura de 6.345 msnm y un pico secundario llamado Siula Chico de 6260 m de altura.[1]

[fr] Siula Grande

Siula Grande est une montagne dans la cordillère Huayhuash, dans les Andes péruviennes. Elle culmine à une altitude de 6 356 mètres.

[it] Siula Grande

Il Siula Grande è una montagna che fa parte della Cordillera Huayhuash, nelle Ande Peruviane. È alta 6.344 m ed ha una cima secondaria (Siulá Chico) alta 6.260 m.[1]

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