geo.wikisort.org - Mountains

Search / Calendar

Saraghrar (Urdu: سراغرار) is the fourth highest independent peak in the Hindu Kush. The entire Saraghrar massif is a huge, irregular stretched plateau at elevation around 7,000 m (22,966 ft), lying above vertical granite and ice faces, which protect it all around. Its distinct summits are poorly identified, and information gathered from expeditions that have visited the area is often misleading. The main summits are: NE summit (7,340 m (24,081 ft)), northwest summit (7,300 m (23,950 ft)), southwest summit (7,148 m (23,451 ft)), south summit (7,307 m (23,973 ft)) and southeast summit (7,208 m (23,648 ft)).

Saraghrar
Highest point
Elevation7,340 m (24,080 ft)[1]
Ranked 78th
Prominence1,979 m (6,493 ft)[2]
ListingUltra
Coordinates36°32′51″N 72°07′00″E[1]
Naming
Native nameسراغرار
Geography
Saraghrar
Pakistan
LocationKhyber Pakhtunkhwa, Pakistan
Parent rangeHindu Kush
Climbing
First ascent1959
Easiest routeglacier/snow/ice

Climbing history


Franco Alletto (left) and Paolo Consiglio (right)
Franco Alletto (left) and Paolo Consiglio (right)
The ice tower
The "ice tower"

In 1958 a British team led by Ted Norrish made a first try on the northeast summit (7,349 m (24,111 ft)). This expedition was stopped by the death of member P. S. Nelson.

The year after, on August 24, 1959, the northeast peak was climbed for the first time by an Italian team led by Fosco Maraini and including Franco Alletto, Giancarlo Castelli, Paolo Consiglio, Carlo Alberto "Betto" Pinelli (the latter four reaching the top), Silvio Jovane, Franco Lamberti (expedition's doctor) and Enrico Leone, all members of the Italian Alpine Club (Rome section). They ascended via the Niroghi glacier on the northeast of the massif.

On August 24, 1967, Satoh Yukitoshi and Hara Hirosada, members of a Japanese expedition led by Kenichiro Yamamoto (Mountaineering club of Hitotsubashi University) reached the South Summit for the first time by the Rosh-Gol glacier.

In 1971, Nagano, member of a Japanese expedition (Shizuoka climbing club) led by Akiyama Reiske, summitted the SW peak for the first time on July 29.

Three Catalan expeditions in 1975, 1977 and 1982 tried the Northwest summit (7,300 m (23,950ft)) via Southwest pillar from the Rosh Gol valley. On August 9, 1982, Juan Lopez Diaz (expedition leader), Enrique Lucas Llop and Nil Bohigas Martorell reached the northwest II summit (7,200 m (23,622 ft)).

In 2005, five members of a Swiss expedition led by Jean-Michel Zweiacker reached the southeast summit (7,208 m (23,648 ft)) for the first time (Mazal Chevallier, Sébastien Grosjean and Yves-Alain Peter on July 24; Marc Bélanger and Jean-Michel Zweiacker on July 29).

In 2021 Georgian mountaineers Archil Badriashvili, Giorgi Tepnadze and Bakar Gelashvili summited the unclimbed Saraghrar Northwest (7.300 m (23,950ft)) September 10th. Ascent was completed in alpine style over 8 days, via unclimbed NW face from the Rosh Gol valley.


See also



References


3.https://agenda.ge/en/news/2021/2647


Sources





На других языках


[de] Saraghrar I

Der Saraghrar I ist der vierthöchste Berg im Hindukusch.
- [en] Saraghrar

[fr] Saraghrar

Le Saraghrar est une montagne du Pakistan et le 4e plus haut sommet de la chaîne de l'Hindou Kouch. L'ensemble du massif du Saraghrar est un immense plateau, irrégulier et étiré à une altitude d'environ 7 000 m, situé au-dessus de faces de granite et de glace verticales, qui le protègent tout autour. Ses sommets distincts sont mal identifiés, et les informations recueillies à partir des expéditions qui ont visité la région sont souvent trompeuses.

[it] Saraghrar

Il Saraghrar è la quarta vetta più alta della catena dell'Hindu Kush, in territorio pakistano. La sua vetta principale, la cima nord-est, raggiunge la quota di 7349 metri slm. Le vette minori sono la cima nord-ovest (7300 m) la cima sud-ovest (7148 m) la cima sud (7307 m) e la cima sud-est (7208 m). Le diverse vette sono poco distinte in quanto la montagna è caratterizzata dalla presenza di un vasto altopiano sommitale a circa 7000 metri.



Текст в блоке "Читать" взят с сайта "Википедия" и доступен по лицензии Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike; в отдельных случаях могут действовать дополнительные условия.

Другой контент может иметь иную лицензию. Перед использованием материалов сайта WikiSort.org внимательно изучите правила лицензирования конкретных элементов наполнения сайта.

2019-2024
WikiSort.org - проект по пересортировке и дополнению контента Википедии