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The Lotus Flower Tower is a peak in the Cirque of the Unclimbables, Northwest Territories, Canada. It is located on the ridge one km southwest of Mount Sir James MacBrien, and though it is not prominent in relation to surrounding peaks, it is noted for its sheer rock walls which are home to classic alpine rock climbs.

Lotus Flower Tower
Lotus Flower Tower by Tom Frost, 1968
Highest point
Elevation2,570 m (8,430 ft)[1]
Prominence160 m (520 ft)[1]
Parent peakMount Sir James MacBrien
Coordinates62°06′51.6″N 127°41′50.4″W
Geography
LocationNorthwest Territories, Canada
Parent rangeMackenzie Mountains
Topo mapNTS 95L4 Mount Sir James MacBrien
Climbing
First ascentJuly 16, 1960, William J. Buckingham and party

The first ascent was made by William J. Buckingham and party on July 16, 1960, via a traverse from "Tathagata Tower" along the ridge which connects Lotus Flower Tower to Mount Sir James MacBrien.[2] The peak's second ascent and first ascent of the sheer 2200 foot southeast face was made in 1968 by Harthon "Sandy" Bill, Tom Frost, and James McCarthy.[3]

The first free ascent of the McCarthy-Frost-Bill route was completed by Steve Levin, Mark Robinson and Sandy Stewart in 1977.[4]

The striking route was recognized as one of the Fifty Classic Climbs of North America[5] and has been called "one of the most aesthetically beautiful rock faces in the world".[6]


References


  1. "Lotus Flower Tower". Bivouac.com. Retrieved 2008-12-25.
  2. William J. Buckingham (1961). "The Logan Mountains, 1960" (PDF). American Alpine Journal: 306–318.
  3. Harthon H. Bill (1969). "The Wall of Forgetfulness: Lotus Flower TowerLogan Mountains" (PDF). American Alpine Journal: 312–317.
  4. Levin, Steve (1978). "Lotus Flower Tower, Free Ascent". American Alpine Journal. New York, NY, USA: American Alpine Club. 21 (52): 545–546.
  5. Steve Roper, Alan Steck (1979). Fifty Classic Climbs of North America. Sierra Club Books.
  6. George Bell (April–May 1992). "The Forgotten Yosemite". Climbing (131).





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